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Thursday, May 7, 2009

West Lombok

West Lombok is one regency from eight regencies of West Nusa Tenggara Island. West Lombok has both the lushness of Bali and the starkness of outback Australia. The 3,726m Rinjani volcano dominates the northwest of the island, while the southwest is arid and covered by savannas. Famous for its basket ware, pottery and ikat hand woven textiles, Lombok has exceptional charm and is relatively undiscovered, except for Sengiggi and the Gili islands that have become popular tourism areas. We visit traditional villages and a local market in search for rare pieces of handicraft.
With the three 'big cities', the airport and the biggest concentration of hotels, West-Lombok is the best place to stay for the visitor. Here are the popular Gili Islands, as well as the most important Balinese temples, the center of Wetu Telu and mount Rinjani. The first route takes the tourist north, from Ampenan to Senggigi beach, Gili's, Wetu Telu center Bayan and surrounding, and eventually to the foothills of Moutn Rinjani. The second route goes south to quiet beaches and surfing locations of the southern peninsula. West Lombok has so many tourism objects:
Batu Bolong Beach
Located 9 km from downtown Mataram, this beach has a huge rock with a hole in it. It is an ideal place which to see the majestic sunset from Lombok Strait. After sunbathing, relaxing and frolicking on this beautiful beach-front, try to stay till the end of the day to watch one of the most stunning sunsets you have ever seen when the sun slowly begins to disappear behind Mount Agung with incredibly flaming colors. A Hindu temple lies on top facing the Lombok Strait and beyond is the contour of majestic Mount Agung of Bali. Colorful and musical religious ceremonies are often held in this beautiful temple.
Narmada
In 1727, King Anak Agung Gede Ngurah Karang Asem as both a pleasure garden and place to worship Shiva built Narmada Garden, 11 kilometers east of Mataram. Its big pool is said to represent Segara Anakan, the Crater Lake on volcano Rinjani where they used to make offerings by throwing valuables into the water. As he became too old to make the pilgrimage up the 3,726-meter high mountain, he had Narmada made to represent the mountains and the lake. Near the pond is a place of worship and a spring whose water is believed to give dedicated pilgrims eternal youth.
Lingsar Purse
This may be the only Hindu shrine in the world where both Hindus and Moslems come to worship. About 7 kilometers west of Narmada, it was built in 1714 and rebuilt in 1878 to symbolize harmony and unity between the Hindu Balinese and Moslem Sasak population of the area, especially those who adhere to Lombok's unique Wektu Telu school of Islam.The Balinese temple is built on higher ground, behind the Moslem section in the compound. In the lower yard is a spring in which pilgrims in the temple yard stage a mock battle between Hindus and Moslems, in which both parties hurl rice cakes at each other.
Agung Gunung Sari Purse
This great temple on a hill at Gunung Sari, about four kilometers from Mataram, was witness to the Puputan battle to the last man, fought on November 22, 1894, between Lombok's last Balinese ruler, Anak Agung Nengah and followers, and the Dutch troops under General Van der Vetter's command.
Senggigi
The roads which leaves Ampenan towards the north, passes two small mountains before it reaches a long, bow-shaped beach. On the mornings after moonless nights these hills offer the best view over the sea, which is scattered with small fishing boats with colorful sails, which return to the beach north of Ampenan. When the sunsets the fishermen leave the beach in one long line their lights create a nice play of lights, which can be seen from most hotels on Senggigi beach.
The first of the two small mountains, which are passed from Ampenan, named Batu Layar, contains the dedicated grave of one of the Islamic saints (wali), which spread Islam on Lombok. The local population prays near a shrine close to the road. It's possible to walk from the summit of the second mountain to the Balinese temple along Batu Bolong beach.
The hotel colony grows with the day and slowly crawls towards the north along the coast. The hotels are built along a road, which runs to Pemenang, twenty km north of Batu Bolong. The road passes several hill, which offer very nice views. The old road to Pemenang is located more inland. It starts in Mataram, passes Rembiga and Gunung Sari villages, which has a busi day market, and then ascends around the village of Sidemen.
Tuak
Sidemen are famous because of its red palm sugar, which is by boiling the juice of sugar palm tree. The sugar (gula merah) is sold in half circles on the markets. The juice of the palm is, just after it's cut off from the trees, drunken fresh as well. The sweet juice is then named 'tuak manis'. Gusted into foaming, alcoholic palm wine it's simply called 'tuak'. Further north is a nice coffee house nears the mountain pass of Pusuk. When the weather is clear you have a nice view over the Gili Islands from here. From Pusuk the road descends to Pemenang, which passes groups of monkeys, which wait for gifts from passers-by.
Kuta Beach
The best-known place on the south coast is Lombok's Kuta Beach (Sometime spelt 'Kute Beach'), a magnificent stretch of white sand and blue sea with rugged hills rising around it, but not much else. Plenty of good waves break on the reefs around here - many supposedly “Secret”. There are lefts and rights in the bay in front of Kuta, and some more on reefs east of Tanjung Aan. Local boatman will take you out for a few thousands rupiah. Go about seven km east of Kuta to fishing in Gerupuk village, where there are several potential breaks on the reefs at the entrance of Gerupuk Bay. Again access is by local fishing boat. There's more breaks further east and west, from Blongas to Serewi. Also known as Putri Nyale Beach, Kuta on the south coast of central Lombok is one of the most scenic and unspoiled beaches in this part of Indonesia. From Kuta to Tanjung Aan five km away, it is an unbroken stretch of clean white sand on the Indian Ocean. It is safe for bathing and swimming. Further to the west are the surfers and wind surfer's beaches. Each year, on the 19th day of the tenth month of Sasak lunar calendar on February or March when Nyale fish come to the sea's surface, Kuta Beach is the site of great festivities. Fishermen sail out to sea while young men and women gather along the beach to join in the merrymaking, tease each other and perhaps meet to build a more lasting relationship.
Gili Island
Gili Island is a popular destination in Indonesia. Gili Islands located in the north west of Lombok, featuring three small, coral fringed islands; Gili Air, Gili Meno & Gili Trawangan, each with superb, white sandy beaches, clear water, coral reefs, brilliantly colored fish and the best snorkeling on Lombok. Visitors, especially young European is attracted to the simple pleasures of sun, snorkeling, beautiful beaches, and socializing. The absence of cars, motorcycles, and hawkers adds greatly to the leasure of staying on the Gilis. "Gili islands" is not the local name. Gili actually means Small Island and there are lots of other gili's around Lombok.
There are many options for an enjoyable holiday on the islands. We can rent snorkeling equipment, join a diving course, rent a kayak, go fishing, or take a glass bottom boat to see the magnificent coral reefs and fishes.
Gili Air
Gili Air is the nearest Gili to Lombok. It is also the most populated and you will find more trees there than the other Gili's. The local inhabitants are: Sasak, Mandar, Bugis and Makassar. You can find their different unique culture from Lombok and wonderful beaches. Many of the older generation still make their living as boatmen, fisherman and farming coconuts.
There are only a few number of 2-3 stars hotels on Gili Air. Most of the places to eat and stay are in south and east side of the island (near the jetty). You can find many home stays or budget accommodation on this island.
Not much things happening for the last 3-5 years. One of the first dive schools (The Reef seeker) is no longer operating from Gili Air. They have moved to Flores. Returning guests are what they expect to come. Most accommodation is locally owned and managed, while a few of the up market hotels own and managed by foreign investors. You can go from one island to another by joining Gili Island's hoping boat (depart twice a day). People here are friendlier than on Gili Trawangan. There are also a few places to stay around the north and south west coast in quieter atmosphere.
There are lots of quality scuba diving operations on all the islands. The coral around the islands is good for snorkeling, which can be reaching from the shore. See rays and giant clams. A must see: Turtles Point, Meno Wall. Dive Schools available on all the islands with many dive programs to choose, from beginners to advanced technical dives.
While divers are able to regularly swim with black tip, those who prefer to just drifts in the currents with a snorkel, fins and mask are never left disappointed by the more than 6,000 species of marine life living just off-shore. Fishing is one of the highlight activities on the islands. Deep fishing remains the best on North West of Gili Trawangan.
Gili Meno
Gili Meno, the middle island, the smallest of the three Gili's and it is the quietest with fewer tourists. A great escape for honeymooners or someone who wants to get away from it all. A special feature of the island is the salt lake and spectacular dive sites such as, Meno Wall, Sea Turtle Point, and Blue Coral Point. The beach on eastern part of the island is very nice and there's snorkeling just offshore and further north. In the past Meno was known to have lots of mosquitoes but steps have been taken to control it. Still the best time to visit the island is during dry season.
Gili Trawangan
Gili Trawangan, the most popular island of the Gili's. Just kick back and enjoy the sun, nightly beach parties and sea. The main stripe is full of accommodations, restaurants, and dive shops. If you are seeking a quieter place to stay, there are bungalows in the north. This Island is also known as "Party Island", where mostly young European found them "Lost In Paradise". With spectacular sunrises over Lombok's Mount Rinjani volcano and breathtaking sunsets that illuminate Bali's towering Mount Agung volcano, together with warm hospitality of Gili Trawangan residents, it's not surprising that most visitors end up staying longer than originally plan.
Snorkeling off the shore, sunbathing, swimming, or join any dive trips with any dive operators, which colored the lines. There are quality dive schools available to cater the needs of tourists, offering complete range of PADI courses, as well as Fun Dives for those already certified. By night, the waterfront comes to life as various foreign and locally restaurants and bars start to fire up, with fresh snapper, grouper and tuna, cooked over charcoal flames, readily available.
Nyale Fishing Festival
On the 19th day of October in Sasak Calendar-generally February or March-hundreds of Sasak gather on the beach. When night falls, fires a built and the young people sit around competing with each other in rhyming couplets called 'Pantun'. At dawn the next day, the first Nyale a caught, after which it is time for Sasak teenagers to have fun. In colorful procession boys and girls sail out to sea - in different boats - chase one another with lots of noise and laughter. The worm-like ‘nyale fish’ is eaten raw or grilled, and is believed to have aphrodisiac properties. A good catch is a sign that the rice harvest will also be good.
The Natives & History
A few years ago, sailors from Bugis, Mandar and Makassar (Sulawesi) occupied Gili Air and establish coconuts plantation and expand the fishing activities.As visitors started to visit Lombok and some came to the Gilis on day trips and then began to stay for longer periods in local homes. The islands have become enormously popular. Their popularity may be a problem, as numbers sometime exceed the available rooms and put pressure on the island environment, especially the supply of fresh water and the capacity of septic system to cope with waste and there is always pressure to build more and better facilities.
Big business interests are trying to cash in on the popularity of the Gilis and the local government is keen to promote up market tourist development.Gili Air and Gili Meno retained much of their un-spoilt quality, but Gili Trawangan has become more touristy and pricy.
The islanders are majority Muslims and visitors should respect their sensibilities. In particular, topless or nude sunbathing is offensive to them, even though they won't say so directly. Away from Beach, it is polite for women to cover their shoulders and thighs. Many visitors are appallingly insensitive to local standards and so many of them walk around in skimpy clothing that it's easy to get impression that the local people don't mind anymore.
Meno's Bird Park
On Gili Meno island, a new tourist attraction introduced by an Australian businessman who live in Bali, with hundreds of various tropical birds from many different rain forests of Indonesia. Bring over a camera to shoot some spectacular moment. Humidity on Gili Meno is higher than two other Gilis. Equipped you with sun protection and mosquito repellent. There are many options for an enjoyable holiday on the islands. You can rent snorkeling equipment; join a diving course, or just snorkeling off the shore to see the magnificent coral reefs and fishes.
Wetu Telu
Wetu telu is a unique religion that blends Islam - Animism and is only found in north Lombok. It roots stem from Bayan village in the north. The people who practice this still consider themselves Muslims but they have their own rituals in addition to the normal Muslim ones. One such ceremony is Nyiu, which takes place 1000 days after someone dies. The relatives of the deceased offer material things like clothing, toothbrushes, food, dishes, mattresses, etc. So the deceased will be pleased in heaven.
Bayan: Center of the Wetu Telu
Bayan is located five km southeast of Anyar. Just before the village a road to the south runs to Batu Koq and Senari, starting points for the ascend of Mount Rinjani. The area has several lodges. From here it's less than one hour walking to the high fall of Sendang Gile, from which the vast fields east of the village get their water.
Bayan is one of the centers of the Wetu Telu; the local penghulu (religious leader) lives besides a pension north of the main road. The Wetu Telu supporters live along the northern side of the road and the orthodox Moslems across the road. It is assumed that Islam was introduced on Lombok through Bayan. The 300-year-old mosque of the village is said to be the oldest of the island. East of Bayan a road runs across steep hills to Kali Putih about 10 km. The distance to Mataram is measured at 90 km, or 126 km through Lombok Port along the eastern coast and the road, which runs across the island towards the west.
Traditional Villages
About two kilometers past Pemenang, an unpaved road runs from the northwestern Lombok beach to Sira beach, where you can find hotels. It's a good place for diving. From Sira until past Tanjung (where there is a Sunday market) the beach is made from black volcanic sand.
Anyar (which also has a Sunday market), capital of Bayan sub district, is located 35 km north of Tanjung. On a number of other locations along the road, puma stone is collected. The road runs through a coconut-palm forest, interchanged with fields and vegetable gardens, which locally are over one km long. Inland the Islamic cemeteries are passed marked by old, West Indian red jasmine trees.
Three traditional villages between Pemenang and Anjar - Jambianon, Krakas and Gondang - are located of the tourist locations and have managed to stay out of the tourist influence for a long time. The residents are friendly and have a quiet, traditional existence.
The water around Gili Air is crystal clear, but there is not much to see for snorkels. The coral has been blown away with dynamite and there is not much fish as well; sometimes there are dangerous jellyfish, which force visitors out of the sea. The best place for snorkeling is the edge of the cliff, which surrounds the island; the coral descends about 14 to 20 meters.
Lembar: Seaport in the South
Travelers, which go south to Lembar port from Mataram, have the choice between two routes. The main road runs from Cakranegara to the southeast to Kediri, before going to Lembar. The road is in pretty good condition. The alternative is a road full of holes, which takes us through a landscape full of fields. This road also take us along a Balinese temple near Mount Pengsong and passes Rumak, east of it, to enter the main road just northwest of Kediri, near Karang Anyar.Just west of Rumak is Banyu Mulek, a village that is known about its pottery, made in open fire. Several products are on sale as well.
Lembar port is often houses several big Buginese schooners. Nice boats, equipped with a diesel engine of a modern freighter. They form a sharp contrast with the efficient ferries from Padangbai on Bali.Just south of the port we can rent a motorized boat for the trip along Gili Nanggu beach. Here we can find nice bungalows built on pillars, besides a nice beach and clear water. Snorkeling however is not good, because the reefs are damaged here as well. A walk around the island only takes twenty minutes.
Gili Genting Island, on a short distance of Gili Nanggu, sometimes the destination is for diving trips. People dive from a steep cliff. The visibility under water is not very good and there are only a few formations of soft and hard coral. The best part of the reef, with nice coral formations and many colorful fish, is close to the surface, easy to reach for snorkels.
The Southwestern Peninsula
To reach the southwestern peninsula of Lombok, we have to take the turn just before Lembar. This road runs to the south, around the bay and then goes inland over a number of hills. 9-kilometer long side road stays close to the bay and offers a nice view over the port area and the bay.
The water is scattered with bagan, fixed fishing plateaus, which seem to float on the surface with their spider like look. After the sunset the fishermen set out their huge fishing nets. They use lights to attract fish groups. Twice or three times a night the nets are raised and emptied, mostly small fish are caught.A small road takes us along a shrimp farm and will eventually end at the main road near Jelateng (where there is a Thursday market). A few kilometers ahead are Sekotongdistrict, which concludes the entire peninsula. Near Sekotong Tengah an unpaved road runs to Sepi.The road to the west, which is paved for the biggest part, runs just along the northern coast of the peninsula. Every now and then there are Side Rivers to the seaside. The water is calm and all beaches are made out of white sand
Holy Forest of Bebekeq
In the nearby forest of Bebekeq a periodical ritual is held. Just before Anyer village, near Sukadana village, is Segenter settlement. The inhabitants have maintained to their traditions due to their relatively strong isolation, this goes for their style of building as well as their Wetu Telu habits. They are friendly and open to visitors, however most cannot speak Indonesian. For a good conversation the tourists probably need sign language, unless we can find a Sasak-speaking guide.(Courtesy By Indonesia-Tourism)

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