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Thursday, August 13, 2009

Mount Lawu : The Temples around

Mount Lawu is in the rustic part of central Java. It has several unusual temples on its slopes, all reachable by hiking from one to the other. The scenery is dramatic, and there are many hidden treasure spots to find along the way.
Sukuh Temple is a perhaps the strangest temple on the slope. Built in the 15th century, it's a post-Hindu, post-Buddhist, post-Islam construction that hearkens back to early prehistoric animist traditions. It actually looks more like a Mayan pyramid than anything Indonesian. Some say that the building's form is homage to Mount Lawu. Others say that the builders were psychically in tune with the Mayan builders also active at the time. Whatever you want to believe is ok by me.
Before you reach the temple gates, you'll encounter a large stone fertility figures -- a lingam and a yoni. Women who wish to become pregnant make offerings to these figures: An innocent enough activity, but one that has earned the temple a sort of ribald reputation. Inside the grounds you'll find several odd sculptures telling stories that nobody has been able to figure out. But it seems to have something to do with fertility and war and turtles. Whatever mix of inspiration and legend came together to make this temple, it works. A truly magical energy permeates this site
A little higher up the hill is Candi Cetho, where in the 70's politicos would come to meditate, believing the temple was the abode of supernatural powers. The temple is actually sort of run down and not as interesting, but it makes a nice story. At the very top of the mountain, you'll find a series of terraces that are visited by as many as 2000 Javanese every New Year. The terrace complexes are ancient - some as old as 2000 years. The ruins have not been completely surveyed, and in themselves are not very impressive. But the views and surrounding terrain are beautiful -- a good place to wander aimlessly and enjoy a few quiet moments
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By Mark Leger